Ben Tianavaig

Ben Tianavaig makes for one of Scotland's finest short hillwalks — a compact hill of only 413 metres, but with a genuinely dramatic coastal position, sensational escarpment, and views out of all proportion to its modest height, rising directly above Portree harbour and the Sound of Raasay.

The route starts from parking beside the beach at Camastianavaig, a beautiful, sheltered, and peaceful settlement. The walk begins fifty yards along the road near the red post box, turning up a path just before a gate — signed "Hill path," though the sign can be easy to miss from the road. The path climbs uphill between two fences, past rowan trees, onto open hillside — the going is mostly short grass and easy underfoot, with a choice early on between heading directly for the summit or following the more scenic route along the coastline, which reveals ever more impressive views as height is gained.

Tianavaig is essentially a sea cliff on its eastern side and a much gentler slope to the west, so views north and south along the Sound of Raasay open up magnificently as the escarpment is climbed, with the Cuillin clearly visible to the south. The cylindrical trig point marks the summit, with Portree harbour revealed suddenly below, the Storr and Trotternish coastline beyond, and Raasay's odd-shaped rocks and pinnacles forming a striking foreground across the water.

For a more adventurous return, it's possible to continue along the escarpment for around 400 metres before descending right into the grassy valley beneath Ben Tianavaig's cliffs, then following a narrow coastal path south back to Camastianavaig — though this involves genuinely steep heather slopes and an airy traverse rounding the southern end of the hill. Most walkers, however, simply retrace their steps by the route of ascent, which is no hardship given the sensational views the whole way back down.

This walk involves unprotected cliff edges for much of its length, and while the paths themselves are unmarked but generally excellent, one short section can be wet — full care is needed near the escarpment edge throughout.

Parking at Camastianavaig is free; a bus service runs from Portree to Braes, with a stop at the Camastianavaig road end, 1km from the start.